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The river went into the remains of the Momskiy Mountains in two large loops.The rescue agency in Yakutsk told that in the most northern bend there were the remains of a village build by a small group of Kozachs in the year 1700.

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However, great misfortune came upon them as every single one of them died from a transmittable disease. Only expecting some forgotten remains, I was surprised to see the efforts made to memorise the tragic history.Memory plates in Cyrillic, the earliest dating from 1950, wooden poles with Asiatic faces carved into them, their bodies decorated by cigarettes and coloured ribbons.Spook on the steep riverside Day twenty-seven, 11 August.Around mid day the river left the Momskiy Range behind.After several kilometres progress was hindered by a deep crevasse forcing me to go back to the little stream again.

I continued for about one kilometer to pitch the tent, making a smokey fire with against the bears. After two kilometres I found a slope that would lead all the way up to the upper regions.

The wind had vanished, and in the clear sky the light between the clouds sharply reflected on the water.

Drifting away from the last outstanding hills I completely lost my sense of orientation.

In the east a hill blocked my view on the central part of the mountains. I hasted to the waterproof food bags that lay hidden on the riverbank. Without the calories I would certainly not reach my destination in time, a small town named Belaya-Gora, with the only landing strip in a vast area of tundra, forests and lakes near the Arctic Ocean.

I went down to drink water in a cold mossy stream surrounded by birch bushes and up again to the hill in the east, where I put up my tent. Missing the flight would cause a chain of missed flights to Amsterdam.

I was interested in the village, especially in the white building on top of the nearby hill, which I thought to be a Buddhist monastery. There was nothing that even remotely referred to a village, except from a jeep that stood on the muddy shore. Passengers went out, walked along the shore and disappeared into the nearby forest. Here I met a kind Asiatic man who was paid to guard the compound.